THE ALPUJARRAS

Explore the Map>>>

In the south east of Spain lies the Sierra Nevada mountain range, and within this range are Las Alpujarras. To the north are the towering snow-capped peaks and on the regions southernmost borders the warm blue of the Mediterranean with the coast of Africa beyond. Surprising to many is the fact that the Sierra Nevada range is the highest in the Iberian Peninsula, higher even than the Pyrenees. The highest individual peak is Mulhacén at 3,478 metres [11,407 feet] and within its shadow, at the head of a spectacular valley lies the village of Trevélez which at an elevation of 1,490 metres [4,887 feet] is said to be Spain´s highest populated village.

The Moors made the Alpujarras their home for 800 years, and their influence is still evident: in the architecture, the place-names and certain dialect words. They also left an obvious physical legacy in two spectacular ways. Firstly, they built a network of tracks running between the high villages and north to Granada itself. But most famously, they also constructed a unique 500 km long irrigation system of channels or acequias. These acequias are still in use, almost unaltered, and beautifully designed to make full use of the snow-melt from the mountains and the numerous natural springs. The acequias were constructed in a way that ensured a fair distribution of the abundant water throughout the area, and they have also ensured that the region stays green and lush long after many other areas have become parched and brown.

With more than 250 days a year of sunshine, rainy weather is scarce, but with the pure snow-melt from the mountains there is seldom any worry about water. There are also springs dotted throughout the mountains, the majority of which offer some of the purest drinking water imaginable: in fact the local bottled natural mineral water comes from Lanjarón, a town in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountain range. The springs offer a number of different kinds of water: natural spring water, natural carbonated water and an iron-rich water. The last of these is considered a medicinal water source by the Spanish who will make special trips to the mountains to take their fill from well-known 'sources' The water is supposed to be good for kidney stones, as an aid to digestion and to prevent anaemia.

In general the temperature in the region remains within a range that is always pleasant (although always cooler than the coastal districts), but the extremes are quite marked: on winter nights it can get as below as 0ºC [32ºF] and in mid-summer it can rise as high as 40ºC [105ºF]. The Alpujarras offer breathtaking views from almost any vantage point, but from the villages on the southern slopes of Sierra Nevada, when the days are clear the mountains of Africa sit on the horizon, whilst at night unpolluted night sky offers a breathtaking panoply of stars overhead.

The Alpujarras extends into two neighbouring provinces. The eastern end of the area falls within the province of Almeria (the 'land of joy' according to the Moors). Almeria is the name of both the province and the provincial capital: the city (with an international airport) is approximately one and a half hours drive from the Alpujarras. One of the delights of the region is the contrasting landscapes and ways-of-life to be found within close proximity of each other: within twenty minutes drive of Almeria is coastal Natural Park of the Cabo de Gata (literally, 'Cape of the Cat') a beautiful semi-desert region that is unique in mainland Europe. The contrasts continue: to the north lies an area known as Mini Hollywood where a number of Spaghetti Westerns were filmed in the sixties. Clint Eastwood is no longer to be spotted here, but it is still used for filming and the visitor centre is a major draw in the area.

On a more elevated level (both spiritually and geographically: not far from the mountain village of Pampaneira, is the Tibetan Buddhist Monastery or Retreat Centre Osel Ling. It was from here that Osel, the Spanish-born reincarnation of the lama the Yesh, was summoned to Dharamsala by the Dalai Lama. There are a number of other Meditation retreats and farms to be discovered by those wishing to enjoy the beauty of the Alpujarras in a more contemplative way.

Still within the mountains, but just to the north of the Alpujarras, is the ski-resort of Sol y Nieve. As it is situated on the northern side of the Sierra Nevada range and so it can only be approached from the direction of Granada. Having said this, it is still the case that it is possible to enjoy first class snow skiing in the morning and sunbathe and water ski in the afternoon: and all within easy distance of a number of airports. Almeria has been mentioned already, but there are also international flights to Granada, Malaga and Alicante.